Jeep Liberty CRD Debuts in the U.S As Diesel Passenger Car

Daimler Chrysler is offering two new diesel passenger cars ‘А” the Jeep Liberty CRD for 2005 and the Mercedes-Benz E 320 CDI for the U.S. Market. And they’re a hit with customers: The planned yearly output of 3,000 E 320 CDI vehicles for the U.S. was already completely sold out five months after the sales launch, and by the end of the year this figure will have been markedly increased.
Combine legendary Jeep off-road capability with state-of-the-art search and rescue technology; the Jeep Rescue is designed to reach areas in the harshest, most daunting mountainous and desert areas.
“Diesel & the U.S.” is a dream combination for automotive engineers. Many drivers in the U.S. prefer vehicles with high torques and towing capacities ‘А” for off road driving, for instance, or for towing heavy loads. And these are exactly the advantages that a diesel engine offers.
Diesel passenger cars don’t even account for a one-percent market share in U.S market unlike in Western Europe, where diesel consumption account for 43 percent of all newly registered passenger cars. Many associate diesel with attributes like “sluggish,” “noisy,” “soot-belching” and “foul-smelling” ‘А” a judgment based on experiences with the diesel passenger cars that were still fairly common sights on America’s streets and highways in the 1980s.
The cruising range of the Mercedez Benz E320 CDI and its low fuel consumption is typical of diesel engines: 7.3 liters per 100 kilometers (measured according to the NEDC), which corresponds to a respectable 40 mpg. In comparison, the E 320 equipped with a gasoline engine uses 9.9 liters per 100 kilometers (30 miles per one gallon of gasoline). The high efficiency of the diesel, which has never been matched by other internal combustion engines, simultaneously ensures wide-ranging mobility and savings on the part of consumers.
The same advantages goes to the Jeep Liberty CRD. The four-cylinder 2.8-liter turbo diesel with common-rail direct injection (CRD) has the torque of an eight-cylinder; its 160 hp delivers acceleration like a six-cylinder; but in terms of fuel consumption the engine is very minimal, even by four-cylinder standards. The values are 22 mpg for city driving and 27 mpg on the highway. Compared to the vehicle’s 3.7-liter, six-cylinder gasoline-engine variants with comparable performance, the Liberty CRD’s diesel delivers fuel savings amounting to a hefty 30 percent. Especially this year, when gasoline prices have also increased sharply in the U.S., the two economical diesel variants from DaimlerChrysler are appearing at the ideal time.
The Jeep Liberty CRD and the E 320 CDI operate according to the common-rail principle, which has since been further improved.
Compared to the gasoline engine, the diesel offers several advantages: A diesel engine emits about 20 percent less carbon dioxide (CO2), and its hydrocarbon (HC) emissions are lower than those of comparable gasoline engines. Yet, the fact remains that a diesel still emits more nitrogen oxides (NOx) and soot particles.
Complete with a fold-flat windshield, retractable backlights and four removable doors, the Rescue concept provides a hint at the future of Jeep styling and functionality. To shop for Jeep Liberty CRD parts, online stores come handy with all sorts of parts needed for your vehicle. One of the most trusted and reliable online stores is Parts Train. Access partstrain.com/ShopByVehicle/JEEP and you’re on your way to top quality and affordable Jeep Parts.

Drivers of SUVs Saving Big Money with Diesel Engines

(ARA) – Half of all American vacationers on the road this year are driving gas guzzling SUVs and pickup trucks, according to a new survey on driving habits from research firm MarketFacts. These bigger vehicles burn high amounts of fuel, which not only puts a dent in drivers’ wallets, but also increases the country’s dependence on foreign oil. Ironically, the MarketFacts study shows that fuel economy is an important issue for SUV and pickup drivers.
According to automotive experts, standard gasoline engines can’t efficiently handle the weight of the larger — and very popular — SUVs and pickup trucks. There is an alternative, however, for drivers of big vehicles to consider: diesel engines.
Diesel engines like the Power Stroke Diesel in Ford F-Series Super Duty pickups are specifically made to provide better mileage — 30 percent in most cases — and have more pulling power than gas engines, which is why they are especially popular among those hauling camping gear or towing boats, RVs and horse trailers.
“People love big trucks for a lot of great reasons, but running a gas engine in them is like trying to heat a hotel with a small home furnace. You’re going to burn way too much fuel and you still won’t get the power you really need,” said Patrick Charbonneau, chief technical officer, Engine Group, International Truck and Engine Corporation. “Diesel engines produce more power than gasoline engines because diesel fuel itself has more energy. And today’s diesel engines are electronically controlled to boost performance and fuel efficiency.”
However, the study found that despite diesel’s known benefits, many Americans are resistant because they still have a negative perception of these engines, recalling the noisy and odorous diesel engines of the ’70s. Industry experts dispel these myths saying today’s diesel engines are greatly improved — running quietly and not producing odors or smoke.
Major automakers in the United States have taken an interest in diesel power predominantly because of the success of diesels in Europe. “Over 30 percent of the passenger cars in Europe are now diesel, and the main reason is fuel economy,” said Charbonneau. “The Big Three know fuel economy is keenly important here in North America.”
Currently in the United States, diesel engines are an option over the standard gasoline engines, adding a few thousand dollars to the cost of a new vehicle. Although buying a diesel engine is a higher monetary investment initially, automakers say diesel engines make up this cost difference within just three years from fuel savings alone. Diesel engines also add greater resale value to pickups and SUVs due to their longevity.
Industry insiders believe that in 20 years, 30 percent of the passenger cars, sport utilities and pickups in America will use diesel engines because of fuel efficiency and near zero emissions capabilities. According to the Department of Energy, if diesels reach even a percent of their potential penetration by 2020, the country could conserve as much as 700,000 barrels of fuel per day — half the energy used daily by the state of California.

Nissan Exchange Revolutionizes Car Parts Replacement

Good tidings to Nissan vehicle owners! The Nissan Exchange is here to revolutionize the way car parts are replaced. What exactly is the Nissan Exchange? Nissan Exchange is a new program designed to give Nissan owners the performance from brand new parts with the service tag of used ones. Nissan Exchange caters to two auto body parts exchange, the Nissan Engine Exchange and the Nissan Gearbox exchange. The concept of “exchanging”, meaning to trade an old part—say an engine, to be refurbished and brought back to life as a brand new product using genuine parts, has been around for decades. But Nissan takes it a step further by assuring prospective Nissan Exchange customers that only genuine Nissan parts will be used by professionally trained Nissan technicians and mechanics.
The Nissan Engine Exchange service remanufactures the engine according to the manufacturer’s specifications. This is done by subjecting the engine to a multi-level process of dismantling, cleaning, machining, identification and replacement of faulty parts, reconditioning and assembly. Each engine is stripped to expose its basic components and critical items such as pistons, bearings, thermostats and timing chains which will be manually inspected and replaced with new Nissan Approved Parts. With this extensive process, you can be assured of superior quality engine at par with brand new Nissan engine blocks. Only genuine, high quality Nissan approved parts are used in the Nissan Engine Exchange.
Following on the success of the elder Nissan Engine Exchange program, the Nissan Gearbox Exchange is also ready to service Nissan car owners. The same meticulous process is followed where every gearbox brought in is stripped down to its bare elements. Every gear box component from seals to bearings and gaskets are individually inspected by trained technicians who painstakingly scrutinize each piece and work to reassemble each part after meeting the manufacturer’s standard specs. With the Nissan Gearbox Exchange, every gearbox carries a 12-month warranty which is the same as the warranty for the brand new unit’Ђ”a committed assurance to clients of quality service and products.
These programs rely on great Nissan parts to ensure its smooth sail. If you are in need of prime quality Nissan replacement parts, visit partstrain.com/ShopByVehicle/NISSAN. At Parts Train, you can be confident that you get the best Nissan parts at reasonable rates. Having been in the industry for 25 years, Parts Train knows how to do its business. Shop at Parts Train and you’ll receive a hefty package of great customer service and excellent auto body parts at manageable prices.

Your Cars Electrical System

When the automotive industry was in its infancy, it used electricity only to ignite the fuel inside the engine. By the late 1920’s, the electric starter replaced the hand crank, electric headlights made acetylene lamps obsolete and the braying of the electric horn drowned out the squeak of the hand-squeezed air horn. Today, an automobile requires an elaborate electrical system of circuits just to produce, store, and distribute all the electricity it requires simply for everyday operation.
The first major component in the electrical system is the battery. The battery is used to store power for starting, and for running auxiliary devices such as clocks, radios and alarms when the engine is off. The next major component is the starter motor, which is used to start the engine. The third component is a charging device powered by the engine, known as the alternator. It powers the electrical system when the car is running, and restores the charge within the battery. With these basic components, the car maintains its supply of electricity. A device called the voltage regulator keeps the power level stabilized, and the fuse box keeps minor problems from becoming major ones.
Many different auxiliary electrical devices are used in modern cars, such as: radios, cellular phones, rear window defrosters and electric door locks, as well as a vast array of motors powering everything from the moon roof on down.
The above information is directly from the Auto Insight program, which you can buy online from AutoEducation.com.
Common Problems:

The battery is usually the first part of the system to wear out. Most batteries last between 3 and 7 years depending on brand and design. Batteries can be fine on minute, and dead the next. More on this later.
Blown fuse: Is one part of the electrical system not working like the interior lights or dash lights? The first thing to check is the fuses. Look for the fuse panel under the dash, in the glove box, or even in the engine compartment in some cars. Most fuse boxes will be labeled by circuit. Modern cars use a blade type fuse which is rectangular in shape and transparent. Look for the wire, which runs through the fuse, and see if it is burned through. Any discoloring of the fuse is a good sign the fuse has blown. If you have doubts, replace with a new fuse and test the system, which is not working.
Alternator: Does your car start ok, but your headlights dim when idling. It could be a bad alternator. When the alternator cannot produce enough electricity to keep the electrical systems running and the battery will have to be used to take up the slack. This will eventually wear down the battery and not allow your car to start.

Troubleshooting:
I don’t think there is a tougher system to troubleshoot on your car than the charging/starting system. This is due to the fact that there are many things that can go wrong and it’s tough to test some components without special equipment. Let’s go over some possible situations and their possible causes.

Car won’t start, all I hear is a click but the engine does not turn.

First check all battery cables for corrosion as this will keep power from flowing freely to the starting system. If they are dirty, clean with a wire brush and reattach. Apply a light coat of grease to the top of the terminals to prevent further corrosion.
Battery could not have enough power stored in it to spin the engine. This can be caused by a bad cell in the battery or from a bad alternator not charging the battery when the engine is running. If you can get the car to a mechanic, have him or her test the battery and charging system with a special tester. This tester places a load on the battery and can tell the condition. They can also check to see if the alternator is working to it’s full potential.
Starter or solenoid could be bad. If you can not jump start the car and all of the battery cables are ok then suspect the starter.

Car won’t start, I hear nothing.

Check battery cables as above.
Have the battery tested. There could be a bad cell causing a short. You can try jump-starting but often the car will not stay running.

Car won’t start, all I hear is a horrible grinding noise.

Grinding noises point to the starter not properly meshing with the flywheel. This can be caused by a bad solenoid or a bad spot on the flywheel.
I have also seen starters loosen up so they no longer contact the flywheel at the proper distance. While not common, it is something to keep in mind.

Car starts but my headlights are dim at low engine speeds.

Look to the alternator for problems. Take the car to your mechanic to have the alternator checked for proper operation.
Check for loose wires going to the alternator. Also check for corrosion, as this will inhibit the alternator from charging properly.
Check the tension on the alternator belt. If it is too loose, the belt may slip and not drive the alternator properly.

As you can see there are plenty of things to go wrong with the charging system and it is always best to take the car to your mechanic and have it tested before you go replacing parts blindly.
Preventing problems with your electrical system:

Replace your battery every 4 years as a safety measure. It will save allot of headaches down the road.
If your battery is not a sealed unit, check fluid levels in each cell. Only fill with distilled water and be careful around the acid, which is in the battery.
Check your alternator belt frequently for cracks and tension. Replace per your cars manufacturers recommendations.
Clean your battery connections at least once a year. Parts stores sell a handy terminal cleaner which is basically a round wire brush, which works wonders. Once you reattach the terminals, coat with a layer of heavy grease or special purpose grease sold at parts stores. This layer will block the air from reacting with the connectors and creating corrosion.

How to jump start your car:
Jump-starting your car does not have to be a hard task. First lay out the cables on the ground between the two cars. Make sure that the cable is not tangled and none of the end clamps are touching each other. The car with the good battery should be running.
Step 1: Take the positive (red) clamp closest to the car with the good battery and hook it to the positive terminal of that car. The positive terminal will have a + sign on it and usually a red wire running to it.
Step 2: Repeat this step on the car with the bad battery, hooking up the positive clamp to the positive terminal on the battery. Make sure the clamps are contacting well and can not fall off.
Step 3: Take the negative cable (black) closest to the car with the good battery and hook it to the negative terminal of the battery. The negative terminal will have a – sign and usually a black wire running to it.
Step 4: This is the last step and the most important. Take the negative clamp closest to the car with the bad battery and attach it to a bare metal part of the engine. DO NOT hook it to the batteries negative terminal as there maybe hydrogen gas present from the battery and a spark from the connection could cause an explosion.
That’s it…… turn the key on the dead car and the car should start. If it does not, try revving the engine on the good car to boost the charge coming from the alternator. If this does not work, try wiggling the cables to assure you have a good connection. GOOD sets of jumper cables are a necessity. I have had cheaper sets not jump-start a dead car. I actually had to double up two cheap sets to get enough current to start my car. The cheaper sets will have thinner cables, which cannot carry enough amperage to start some stalled cars. I would suggest buying a cable, which has 4,6 or 8-gauge wire.

Your Drive Train Explained

The drive train serves two functions: it transmits power from the engine to the drive wheels, and it varies the amount of torque. “Power” is the rate or speed at which work is performed. “Torque” is turning or twisting force. Multiple ratio gearboxes are necessary because the engine delivers its maximum power at certain speeds, or RPM (Rotations Per Minute). In order to use the same engine RPM’s at different road speeds, it is necessary to change the “Gear Ratio” between the engine and the drive wheels. Just like a bicycle, the car has to switch gears in order to move at a wide range of speeds. Unlike your bicycle, the car’s drivetrain also has to allow you to back up. (Well, you could push it backwards if you ate your Wheaties)
There are actually two sets of gears in the drive train; the transmission and the differential. The transmission allows the gear ratio to be adjusted, and the differential lets the drive wheels turn at different speeds.
Manual transmissions usually have four or five speeds, and often have “overdrive”, which means that the output shaft can turn faster than the input shaft for fuel economy on the highway. Some use an electric clutch and a switch that controls whether the overdrive is engaged or not. An interesting development on a few cars is the “clutchless” manual transmission, which uses a stick shift and an automatic electric clutch. Speed and position sensors, mini computers, and throttle controls keep the engine from over-revving when the driver shifts gears. As with many automotive “inventions”, this is an old idea, which may now reach feasibility due to the computer revolution.
Automatic transmissions commonly use three forward gears to blend speed and torque. In the case of a three-speed transmission, first gear delivers maximum torque and minimum speed for starting. Second gear offers medium torque and speed for acceleration and hill climbing. Third gear allows maximum speed with minimum torque for highway travel. A reverse gear permits backward movement.
A transmission is a speed and power-changing device installed at some point between the engine and driving wheels of a vehicle. It provides a means for changing the ratio between engine RPM (Revolutions Per Minute) and driving wheel RPM to best meet each particular driving situation.
Some types of drive train layouts use a “Transaxle”, which is simply a combination of the transmission and the differential. These are usually found on front wheel drive cars, but are also used on mid- and rear-engine cars. Some exotic cars have their engine in the front, and a transaxle in the rear of the car for better weight balance.
Torque is derived from power. The amount of torque obtainable from a source of power is proportional to the distance from the center of rotation at which it is applied. It is logical, then, that if we have a shaft (in this case, the crankshaft) rotating at any given speed, we can put gears of different sizes on the shaft and obtain different results. If we put a large gear on the shaft, we will get more speed and less power at the rim than with a small gear. If we place another shaft parallel to our driving shaft and install gears on it in line with those on the driving shaft, we can obtain almost any desired combination of speed or power within the limits of the engine’s ability. That is exactly what an automobile transmission does by means of gears and other devices.
There are two types of transmissions; manual and automatic. If you have a manual transmission, you have to shift the gears yourself, usually with a stick located on your console and the clutch pedal. If you have an automatic transmission, the mechanism changes without any help from you. This is accomplished through a system that works by oil pressure. Each shift of the gears is controlled by a shift valve; the gears shift change depending on speed, the road, and load conditions.
Another basic component of all drive trains is some form of a clutch. it allows the engine to continue rotating while the gears and wheels are stationary. Automatic transmission cars use a “torque converter” in lieu of a clutch.
The last component in the drive train is the axle. In a rear wheel drive car the axle is in the rear. Engine power is transmitted from the transmission to the axle via the drive shaft. The drive shaft is basically a metal tube with joints on each end called universal joints. These joints allow the tube to move in relation to the suspension and keep power flowing to the rear. In front wheel drive cars the axle is integrated into the transmission thus the term transaxle.
>From the back of the engine to where the rubber meets the road, the drive train encompasses one of the most complicated systems of your car. Some people say looking at a transmission “makes their brain hurt”.
The above information is directly from the Auto Insight program, which you can buy online from AutoEducation.com.
Common Problems:

Manual transmissions suffer from wear mainly in the synchronizers. The synchronizers make shifting easier and help to prevent gear clash. Over time the synchronizers, which are made of brass, can wear out causing hard shifting and grinding.
Automatic transmissions can also wear out, causing slipping and uneven shifting patterns. Universal joints can wear and cause vibrations while driving. Many newer universal joints are sealed and cannot be lubricated, leaving replacement as the only option.

Preventive Maintenance:

Change the fluid in your transmission at recommended intervals. Your owners manual will give you a time schedule in miles and or months. If you tow a boat or trailer be prepared to change the fluid even sooner. Most owners manuals will give you recommend intervals for severe use like towing or off-road use.
Do not “ride” the clutch if you have a manual transmission. Learn to release the clutch in a smooth motion without revving the engine too much. Revving the engine too much while pulling out can cause premature wear on the clutch.
If you do tow a boat or trailer, consider getting a transmission cooler for your automatic transmission. Temperatures can approach the boiling point in severe conditions. Most newer trucks come equipped with transmission coolers if sold with a towing package.
Make sure your universal joint is lubricated at oil changes if they are the type, which can be lubricated. When replacing universal joints try to find replacements with lubrication fittings so you can lubricate in the future.
If you have a front wheel drive car, avoid applying the gas to the floor while the wheels are turned at full lock. This puts stress on the universals and can cause premature failure. This can happen when stuck in the snow and trying to get out.

What to discuss with your mechanic:

If you are noticing a vibration in the car while driving, make sure to describe when it happens. While accelerating? braking? maintaining speed? when turning?

The Engine Explained

The engine is the heart of your car, but instead of pumping blood, the engine pumps air and fuel. The engines main function is to convert air and fuel into rotary motion so it can drive the wheels of the car. How does it do that ??…. Well let’s start with a cutaway of the engine and see all the major parts then we will get into the actual mechanics.
Pistons: Most common engines have 4, 6, or 8 pistons, which move up and down in the cylinders. On the upper side of the piston is what is called the combustion chamber where the fuel and air mix before ignited. On the other side is the crankcase, which is full of oil. Pistons have rings which serve to keep the oil out of the combustion chamber and the fuel and air out of the oil.
Crankshaft: The crankshaft is connected to the pistons via a connecting rod. As the piston moves up and down in the cylinder it rotates the crankshaft and converts the straight line motion into rotary motion.
Valve train: The valve train consists of valves, rocker arms, pushrods, lifters, and the camshaft. (shown in above picture in blue, yellow, and green) The valve train’s only job is that of a traffic cop. It lets air and fuel in and out of the engine at the proper time. The timing is controlled by the camshaft, which is synchronized to the crankshaft by a chain or belt.
Now that we have a general overview of the parts involved let’s talk about what happens. Most automotive engine today are 4-stroke (or 4-cycle) engines, meaning they have four distinct events which make up the cycle.

Intake stroke: The camshaft opens the intake valve and the piston moves down the cylinder. This creates vacuum and sucks in air and fuel into the combustion chamber above the piston.
Compression stroke: As the piston starts moving back up the cylinder the intake valve closes and seals off the combustion chamber. The causes the air and fuel to compress.
Power stroke: As the fuel is compressed and the piston nears the top of the cylinder the spark plug fires and ignites the fuel and air. This explosion pushes the piston back down the cylinder and drives the crankshaft.
Exhaust stroke: After the piston reaches the bottom of the cylinder, the exhaust valve opens and the gasses left over from the fuel and air are sent out to the exhaust system.

Put these four events together in the above order and you have a complete cycle. Are you asleep yet? That’s enough theory, let’s talk about the real world and problems you might encounter with the above mentioned parts.
Pistons: Remember I talked about the rings, which seal the combustion chamber from the crankcase. The rings over time tend to wear out. When they wear they allow the fuel and air to enter into the oil and dilute it. This dilution reduces the oils ability to lubricate your engine and can cause premature wear. Also if the rings wear down they can allow oil from the crankcase to enter the combustion chambers. This will result in oil being burned and exiting your tailpipe as grayish/white smoke. If your car spews grayish white smoke and it does not go stop in the first few minutes after start-up you might have warn rings. If the smoke goes away after start-up look to the valve train section.
Crankshaft: The crankshaft rides on bearings, which can wear down over time. The bearings support the crankshaft and also the rods, which connect the pistons to the crankshaft. A loud medium pitched knocking noise in the engine points to warn bearings most of the time. This is usually a costly repair and involves removing the crankshaft and either machining the surface where the bearings ride, or replacing the entire crankshaft. To prevent this type of problem, use a high quality oil, change your oil at suggested intervals (3 months or 3000 miles is a safe number) and always maintain your oil level between oil changes.
Valve train: Remember the oil smoke problem mentioned above in the piston sections. If your car only smokes grayish/white smoke at start-up you may have leaking valve seals. Valve seals keep oil from above the valve from leaking into the combustion chamber. When they wear, they can allow oil to seep into the combustion chamber and collect there until your start the engine again. You generally do not get oil leaking past the valve seals while the engine is running since the seals expand with the heat of the engine and plug the leak.
Another common problem is the timing chain or belt will slip or even break causing the cam shaft to stop rotating. Remember the camshaft tells the valves when to open and if it stops spinning then the valves stop opening and closing. No valve moving, no engine running  🙂
A term you will here when talking about timing chains and belts is “interference engine”. When an engine is an “interference engine” the pistons and valves are so close together that if the valves were to stop moving (broken belt or chain) and the crankshaft kept spinning they would crash into the piston. (that’s the interference) This crash tends to do bad things to an engine, breaking valve, bending pushrods, and even cracking pistons. This is why most manufacturers recommend changing the timing chain or belt every 60,000 miles. Timing belts dry out, stretch and deteriorate over time so even if you do not have 60,000 miles on the car think about changing the belt after it’s 6 years old.
Preventive Maintenance:

Change your oil regularly.
Give your engine a chance to warm up before driving if possible. Let the oil get into all parts of the engine before driving. This is even more critical in cooler temperatures when the oil is cold and sluggish.
Change your timing belt or chain at your manufacturer’s recommended interval.
void “snake oil” additives advertised on late night TV. Regular oil changes and good maintenance habits will keep your engine running it’s best.
If you have a turbo charged engine, give the engine a minute or two cool down before turning it off. This cool down period allows oil to circulate and cool down the bearings. If you shut off the engine immediately after hard driving, the oil can gum up around the hot bearings and create problems down the road.

What to discuss with your mechanic:

If you have to replace your engine, discuss the benefits of buying used versus new. If you plan on keeping your car for some time, a new engine might be the best bet. Sometimes new engines are not much more expensive than rebuilt ones, and offer the best solution.
When trying to diagnose engine noises, be as descriptive as possible. Take note to when the noise occurs; at what throttle position, and when the noise started occurring. Sometimes changing the weight of oil being used can cause a new noise to crop up. Make sure you mechanic knows if you changed oil brands or weight recently.