The TomTom Go is a rather small package which contains everything you need for automobile navigation. It’s designed as a ready-to-go product with software, maps, and car mount that works straight out of the box (well, almost). Let’s take a look at what it can do.
It does require a little set up. Connect the unit to your PC, load one of the CDs, and choose the region you intend to travel. Now we come to the first handy thing about the TomTom Go. Other brands limit the region choices to only one configuration.
For example, your choice may be Ohio, Indiana, and Kentucky. That’s fine if you plan on staying within that region. But what happens when you want to travel to Illinois, too? This can often be a problem because data (map) storage space is limited. It is likely that uploading that additional region requires a larger capacity data storage card which means extra bucks. The TomTom Go allows you many choices of combinations of states so it is very likely that one of the choices easily covers where you are going without extra hassle and expense.
After an easy car installation, it’s time to tell it where to take you. There are three main ways to start navigating. You can enter an address, use the map and point to a place on the touch screen, or select from the thousands of points of interest (POI). Some of the POI categories are: food & drink, shops, parks, airports, and lodging.
Other navigation options allow you to go home, go to a recent destination, or a “favorite.” A place you may go to over and over again can be saved as a favorite.
The loud and clear voice directions will say, for instance, “turn left in 200 yards.” It will again announce the maneuver closer to the turn. All the time, the TomTom Go is displaying a map of your progress. It has your choice of 3D or 2D views with different displays for day and night use.
TomTom has built in a lot of customizing. There are several choices of voices in different languages and you can program the unit to give you additional voice prompts such as distance since departure or time to instruction. You can make it left–hand friendly or change the map colors. You can even flip the display 180 degrees in case you need to mount it upside–down.
The negatives? This item is not for geeks. In other words, it is limited in its technical aspects — it was designed for the consumer. For instance, there is no choice for fastest/shortest routing or navigating by longitude/latitude. I also found it lacking a number of points of interest.
Overall, the TomTom Go is a well thought out piece of gear. It’s available online in the range of $550 to $800 US.
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Parents of Teen Drivers
So, what does a parent think while sitting in the passenger seat and their teen is driving with a permit license? A “bump” in the parking lot with another car? Traffic tickets for moving violations? Insurance rates sky-rocketing?
If you visit search engines you can find several resources to assist you on this subject. Try searching on the phrase “parents with teen drivers”. Alternatively we have tried to make this easy for you if you visit our news page on this very topic.
A few resources on the web for parents are:
Parent-Teen Contract
You might also consider using a driving safety contract between you and your teen. This is an agreement that your child signs, in which he agrees to be a safe driver by following all restrictions you have imposed or risk losing his driving privileges. An example of this can be found at:
ipromiseprogram.com/
Talk It Out
Work with your teen driver to talk through their thought process while driving. Let’s not over-do this to the point that they cannot concentrate on driving. More specifics can be found in the book for parents at:
safeyoungdrivers.com/
Helpful thoughts for parents in brief are:
Drive by example
Watch your emotional response while your teen is driving
Work with your teen on various driving conditions, not just dry sunny days.
Large open fields or empty parking lots are good sources for practicing
Of course while you’re working with your teen driver and their permit license, we have to keep the drivers around us in mind too. Auto Safety Magnets has a focus strictly on car safety for teen drivers, their parents and driving schools. Our magnets will increase road awareness and traffic safety. Help keep the roads safe for you and other drivers. We invite you to sign-up for our free newsletter covering Driving Schools, Car Safety and Teen Drivers at our website.
How to install Neon & LED Undercar lights
So you’ve got your Neon or LED under car kit, and can’t wait to have it installed and running… am I right? No problemo, we’ll have you up and running in no time!
Just in case you’re wondering about how to install other neon or led lights sold at “out-lets” other then the All-Neon-Car-Lights.com website, I can assure you that most of the instructions that come with each of the various kits are easy to follow. They have been designed with the do-it-yourselfer in mind. (Or at least they “should” be). However, if you are in need of any special advise about a particular car lighting product, please contact us via the email link provided below and we will do our best to help you.
For some people, a car is a means of transport and nothing more. As long as their vehicle gets them from point A to point B and back again, has nice comfortable seats, a good sound system and a coffee mug holder, it serves all of its purposes well. And of course there are other drivers for which a car is much, much more — It can be an extension of their personality or an object of their fixation. In this huge world of automotive accessories, there is no product that screams louder than the underbody light kit for this type of individual. If you consider cruising in your car is among your favorite hobbies and you relish the stares of pedestrians and fellow-motorists, then a under car light kit may be for you.
These lights, which mount to the body around the perimeter of the vehicle’s undercarriage, come in kits that contain the elements you’ll need for installation. The “how to install under car lights” instructions that you’ll be directed to shortly, are fairly straight forward, but since it requires drilling into the body of the vehicle and substantial electrical work (depending on the kit you buy), it’s best left to the more experienced do-it-yourselfers. If this project seems a little too hard for you, rest assured that there is a growing number of custom shops that perform this type of installation. If you do decide to take on the installation yourself, which anyone can do with the correct instructions, be sure to purchase a kit that is compatible with your vehicle, and read and follow the instructions that come with the kit carefully.
Ever wondered how long car lighting kits have been around? Well Hot Rods were the first cars to have undercar lighting installed on them, (although, the lights were nothing like they are today) back before import and export was a big industry world wide. And today, thanks to the World Wide Web and the fact that import and export is now more commonly practiced throughout the world, they have become more popular then ever before.
So this is the reason why we set out to write up these “How to install under car lights” instructions, as they are *required* by people like yourself.
Our team of dedicated Market & Product Researchers and including myself, have spent an enormous amount of time & money installing under car kits from a variety of manufacturers, and as a result after all this testing, we can now provide you with generic instructions on how to install under car lights on your vehicle. We also found after this extensive testing was carried out, that Plasmaglow had the best, “all round” car lighting products available on the market today, outlasting and out-performing the competition in every aspect, hence the reason why we recommend their products on the all-neon-car-lights.com website.
As a related note, please keep in mind that the main issues we face with having neon or LED car lights on our vehicles these days is the fact that they are often frowned upon by the authorities. So to avoid any uninvited fines, its best to install neon lights under a car so as they can be activated through a separate switch rather than having them come on when the headlights are turned on. To do this, you can run a power wire directly from the car battery to the kits operating switch, thus by-passing the vehicles headlight wires.
The “How to install under car lights” instructions below have been designed & written with ALL “under car kits” in mind. These instructions will benefit those who have LED under car kits to install, and/or Neon under car kits.
Enjoy your new undercar lights, and drive safely.
BMW and Clean Energy
BMW is committing its engineering resources to honing the technology that enables it to use hydrogen as an alternative to fossil fuels. Though the hydrogen concept has long been espoused and may be old news to many, the recent engineering and marketing breakthroughs for the proliferation of more hydrogen powered BMW cars is something new.
In the late 1990s, BMW was worried if its hydrogen fueled will actually gain a following despite its obvious environmental advantage. People have gotten used to the ease of driving through a gas station for refueling, that same comfort is not available with the hydrogen car. And though hydrogen is the most abundant element in the universe, energy companies will not be easy to convince to build hydrogen stations if the market is minimal.
But BMW’s dedication and commitment to educate the public against preconceived notions such as vehicular performance and safety has paid of. Several years after the company first brought the idea to the public, BMW reports of unprecedented record sales in 2004.
2005 brought more success to the Bimmer as its H2R reaped accolades and awards proving that it can perform at par with its gas-guzzling contemporaries.
BMW is the world leader in the development of hydrogen cars with internal combustion engines,” said Tom Purves, chairman and CEO of BMW Group (U.S.). “We believe that in the output range above 140 horsepower, there is still no other clean, practical alternative to hydrogen.
“The H2R concept car is more than a mere exercise. We will offer customers a production car with a hydrogen combustion engine during the production period of the current BMW 7 series.”
BMW owners can find BMW auto body parts at partstrain.com/ShopByVehicle/BMW where an organized catalogue of the best quality BMW aftermarket parts is waiting to be perused. At Parts Train you will receive not just great products but an excellent customer service too. After 25 years in the biz, we have mastered the art of keeping our customers happy by providing them the lowest prices, the best BMW replacement auto body parts and service that is worthy of praise. Click on the link above and get a taste of the Parts Train shopping experience.
Save Thousands on Any New Car by Using the Internet
Failure to do your homework will prove costly when you purchase your next new vehicle. The internet makes all of the essential information accessible for free, so fire up your computer and get ready to save money.
If you are unlucky enough to be trading in your old vehicle, brace yourself because it is going to be ugly. The price dealers offer to pay is always painfully low. Don’t be fooled by minimum trade promotions, they will just charge you more for the new car to cover their losses. The only way to get a fair price for your trade is to sell it yourself. Here are a few good web sites to sell your automobile for a small fee.
traderonline.com
dealsonwheels.com
autotrader.com
ebay.com
If you must trade in your old car, you can always find an independent appraisal online for free. I recommend looking up a few so that you can estimate a price range before you head out to make the trade. In addition to appraising your trade in, these sites provide estimates of how much you could expect to receive if you were to end up selling it yourself.
nadaguides.com
kbb.com
edmunds.com
A fairly new subject to address when preparing to purchase your next new automobile is the rebate, incentive, bonus cash, special offer or whatever they are calling the sale this week. The rebates are a popular tool used most frequently by American auto makers. For the consumer, an advantage of the incentives can be that banks are willing to loan retail price and even a little more. The sale price often ends up thousands of dollars less than the retail price. So if you owe slightly more than your car is worth, you may be able to roll that negative equity over into a shiny new car. I have seen rebates as high as $7000 on GM trucks and $5500 on GM cars. Whether you are upside down in your current vehicle or not, the rebate can save you money. Don’t wait until you get to your local car dealer to ask about it. I found dealers reluctant to admit how big the rebate should have been on my last truck. The most accurate and up to date rebate information can be found on the manufacturer web sites.
GM.com
Chevy.com
Pontiac.com
Buick.com
Oldsmobile.com
Saturn.com
Cadillac.com
Hummer.com
Ford.com
Lincoln.com
Mercuryvehicles.com
Acura.com
international.chryslercorp.com
Mercedes-benz.com
Jeep.com
Jaguar.com
Volkswagen.com
Porsche.com
Audi.com
Toyota.com
Lexus.com
Nissanusa.com
Infinity.com
Volvocars.com
LandRover.com
Bmw.com
Ferrari.com
Lamborghini.com
Lotuscars.com
Suzuki.com
Kia.com
Hyundai.com
After researching available rebates, find the difference between the retail and invoice price. Unless you are trying to buy a limited production vehicle, you can usually negotiate a price of a few thousand dollars below the window sticker. The invoice price will give you an idea of how much the dealer paid for the car. I usually push for a price that is a couple hundred dollars over invoice, because I know the dealer will have expenses to cover. The difference between retail and invoice prices can be near $5000. You may have to visit a few different dealerships, but it is worth it. Information on invoice prices can be found at the following web sites.
nadaguides.com
kbb.com
consumerguide.com
edmunds.com
Now that you know how much to pay for your new vehicle, it is time to address financing. Most buyers need to obtain a loan and if you are not careful, the dealer will squeeze a few thousand dollars out of you here as well. With good credit, the best deal can probably be found at your local bank. Stop in and talk to a loan officer before you go to the car dealer. If you leave it up to the dealership, they will try to push you into the loan that works out best for them. That usually means a higher interest rate and payment for the consumer. If you have less than perfect credit and a current auto loan in good standing call them first and ask to get pre-approved for a new car. By using the internet, you can find banks that are a little more forgiving than your average local bank. Here are a few that I found during a recent search.
Americredit.com
wfsfinancial.com
householdauto.com
It’s easy to fight the price and win when you know where to look. Good luck and enjoy your new car!
Checking Fluids
Keeping your vehicle in tip-top shape requires constant monitoring of vital fluids. Read you owners manual and look for a diagram of the engine. Most times there will be a diagram showing where to check all the major fluids. This should be your starting point. If your manual is lost in the glove box or you never had one, then ask your mechanic or a friend who knows cars to show you all the places to check. There are 4 major levels to check on most cars.
Engine oil – Usually towards the front of the engine and marked “OIL” Always check your oil level with the engine OFF. Remove the dipstick and wipe the oil off with the rag or towel then put the dipstick back into the hole. Now pull out and get a reading. You might have to hold the dipstick to the light to get a good reading as fresh oil can sometimes be hard to see. On the dipstick there will be two marks indicating a maximum and minimum level for the oil. Make it a habit of checking your oil every two weeks.
Transmission fluid – If you have an automatic transmission then you will have a dipstick to check the fluid level. It is most commonly found towards the back of the engine compartment or towards the passenger side. You should find out how to check the fluid by looking at the owner’s manual or on the dipstick itself. Most cars have to be running with the transmission in park or neutral. Also the transmission should be warmed up to give a true reading. Make sure the car has been driven for a short distance to make sure everything is up to operating temperature. Checking the level is just like checking your oil, wipe off dipstick, replace, pull out again and check level. If you have a manual transmission there is no dipstick and to check the fluid level you must crawl under the car and remove a fill plug. I would have your mechanic check this for you once a year if you do not feel comfortable doing this.
Engine coolant – — CAUTION — Never open your radiator cap when the engine is hot ! The pressure in the system can send hot coolant splashing out on to you. Most cars have an overflow bottle, which will have level markings. Keep the coolant between these markings. If you have to open the radiator, make sure the engine is cold.
Power steering fluid – Your car uses oil to assist in steering the car. The fluid is usually checked at the pump, but can be away from the pump in a separate reservoir. Like the transmission, this fluid should also be checked when up to operating temperature. Most commonly the level is measured by a small dipstick attached to the cap of the reservoir.
Brake fluid – On most newer cars you can check brake fluid level without removing the cap on the master cylinder. There will be level markings on the side of the plastic reservoir. If you have to remove the cover to check the fluid level, be careful not to spill any fluid on the surrounding paint. Brake fluid makes a nice paint remover 🙂
Windshield washer fluid – That’s the magic blue liquid that squirts out of your hood. Most reservoirs have the level marked on the side but some newer cars have them buried underneath everything so you can not see. Just fill to the top, there is no harm in overfilling.
If you need to add any fluids to bring the levels up, a funnel is helpful to avoid spills. Keep track of how often you add oil, and transmission fluid. Frequent additions can point to leaks and engine wear.
Auto Tools For The DIY’er
If you are a car owner who occasionally works on his or her own car, please don’t go out and spend thousands of dollars on high priced tools. Professional mechanics make a living with their tools and need the best. If you are doing minor repairs on your own vehicles a lower cost tool set will do just fine. We have teamed up with AutoBarn.com to bring you the best price on tools for the DIYer. Keep in mind you can find most of these tools at your local parts store, but probably not at these prices. Let’s look at the basics you will need for most common jobs.
The oil change:
Lifting tools: To gain access to the oil pan you need to get the front wheels off of the ground safely. Never leave the car supported only by a jack. A good set of jack stands or ramps are the safest way to go. Also don’t forget to chock up the rear wheels to keep the car from sliding back. Even though you may have the emergency brake set, they can fail.
Oil filter wrench: Nothing is more frustrating than trying to get an oil filter off without the right wrench. I have gone to the extent of poking a screwdriver through the filter to spin it off….. this is not the cleanest way to change an oil filter.
Funnel: You have to get the new oil into the engine, and the less you spill, the less will burn off later while driving. Any funnel will do, but look for one with a long flexible neck, which will help getting into those tight places.
The brake job:
Disc brakes: You will need some special hex or torx sockets to get the caliper loose. Do not try using the wrong tool like a vise-grips or filed down bit…. you will damage the bolts. You will also need to retract the brake pistons once you have the old pads out. Using a C-clamp does work, but you have to be careful not to damage the pistons.
Drum brakes: There are special tools, which allow you to remove the clips, which hold the shoes to the backing plate. Also you will need an adjuster to adjust the shoes once you have everything back together.
Bleeding the brakes: Get a good kit, which includes a sealed container to collect the expelled brake fluid.
General tools:
A good Quality Tool Set: Make sure you have metric wrenches as all import cars have metric fasteners and most if not all-new domestic cars do also. If you plan on doing advanced work, or plan on eventually working as a professional mechanic consider buying a set of Craftsman tools. I have found them to be the best value and you cannot beat the lifetime guarantee. Plus wherever you are, there is a Sears store to take your broken tools in for replacement.
Auto Repair Manual: You wouldn’t bake a cake without a recipe…. would you?? Make sure you have a manual by your side before you start working on your car. I can only give you general guidelines, but the manual will give you all of the specifics for your car, truck or SUV.
How Your Cars Suspension Works
“Suspension,” when discussing cars, refers to the use of front and rear springs to suspend a vehicle’s “sprung” weight. The springs used on today’s cars and trucks are constructed in a variety of types, shapes, sizes, rates, and capacities. Types include leaf springs, coil springs, air springs, and torsion bars. These are used in sets of four for each vehicle, or they may be paired off in various combinations and are attached by several different mounting techniques. The suspension system also includes shocks and/or struts, and sway bars.
Back in the earliest days of automobile development, when most of the car’s weight (including the engine) was on the rear axle, steering was a simple matter of turning a tiller that pivoted the entire front axle. When the engine was moved to the front of the car, complex steering systems had to evolve. The modern automobile has come a long way since the days when “being self-propelled” was enough to satisfy the car owner. Improvements in suspension and steering, increased strength and durability of components, and advances in tire design and construction have made large contributions to riding comfort and to safe driving.
Cadillac allegedly produced the first American car to use a steering wheel instead of a tiller.
Two of the most common steering mechanisms are the “rack and pinion” and the standard (or recirculating-ball) systems that can be either manual or assisted by power. The rack and pinion was designed for sports cars and requires too much driver muscle at low speeds to be very useful in larger, heavier cars. However, power steering makes a heavy car respond easily to the steering wheel, whether at highway speeds or inching into a narrow parking place, and it is normal equipment for large automobiles.
The suspension system has two basic functions, to keep the car’s wheels in firm contact with the road and to provide a comfortable ride for the passengers. A lot of the system’s work is done by the springs. Under normal conditions, the springs support the body of the car evenly by compressing and rebounding with every up-and-down movement. This up-and-down movement, however, causes bouncing and swaying after each bump and is very uncomfortable to the passenger. These undesirable effects are reduced by the shock absorbers.
The above information is directly from the Auto Insight program, which you can buy online from AutoEducation.com.
Common Problems:
Shocks and struts can wear out and affect handling. If you car bounces excessively over bumps and leans hard in corners, your shocks could be warn. Look behind the wheel for the shock or strut and look for leaking oil. This is a sure sign of a worn shock or strut.
Ball joints. Ball joints wear and can cause your car to wander while driving down the road. This is dangerous as they can separate and cause you to lose control.
Preventive maintenance:
Check your shocks or struts for leakage frequently. Also pay attention to how your car handles. If you notice the ride deteriorating take your car in to have the struts checked.
Ball joints should be checked when your car is inspected, if not, have your mechanic check them at least twice a year.
At each oil change make sure you or your mechanic lubricates the ball joints and any other suspension components. Some components cannot be lubricated as they are sealed from the factory.
Your Cars Electrical System
When the automotive industry was in its infancy, it used electricity only to ignite the fuel inside the engine. By the late 1920’s, the electric starter replaced the hand crank, electric headlights made acetylene lamps obsolete and the braying of the electric horn drowned out the squeak of the hand-squeezed air horn. Today, an automobile requires an elaborate electrical system of circuits just to produce, store, and distribute all the electricity it requires simply for everyday operation.
The first major component in the electrical system is the battery. The battery is used to store power for starting, and for running auxiliary devices such as clocks, radios and alarms when the engine is off. The next major component is the starter motor, which is used to start the engine. The third component is a charging device powered by the engine, known as the alternator. It powers the electrical system when the car is running, and restores the charge within the battery. With these basic components, the car maintains its supply of electricity. A device called the voltage regulator keeps the power level stabilized, and the fuse box keeps minor problems from becoming major ones.
Many different auxiliary electrical devices are used in modern cars, such as: radios, cellular phones, rear window defrosters and electric door locks, as well as a vast array of motors powering everything from the moon roof on down.
The above information is directly from the Auto Insight program, which you can buy online from AutoEducation.com.
Common Problems:
The battery is usually the first part of the system to wear out. Most batteries last between 3 and 7 years depending on brand and design. Batteries can be fine on minute, and dead the next. More on this later.
Blown fuse: Is one part of the electrical system not working like the interior lights or dash lights? The first thing to check is the fuses. Look for the fuse panel under the dash, in the glove box, or even in the engine compartment in some cars. Most fuse boxes will be labeled by circuit. Modern cars use a blade type fuse which is rectangular in shape and transparent. Look for the wire, which runs through the fuse, and see if it is burned through. Any discoloring of the fuse is a good sign the fuse has blown. If you have doubts, replace with a new fuse and test the system, which is not working.
Alternator: Does your car start ok, but your headlights dim when idling. It could be a bad alternator. When the alternator cannot produce enough electricity to keep the electrical systems running and the battery will have to be used to take up the slack. This will eventually wear down the battery and not allow your car to start.
Troubleshooting:
I don’t think there is a tougher system to troubleshoot on your car than the charging/starting system. This is due to the fact that there are many things that can go wrong and it’s tough to test some components without special equipment. Let’s go over some possible situations and their possible causes.
Car won’t start, all I hear is a click but the engine does not turn.
First check all battery cables for corrosion as this will keep power from flowing freely to the starting system. If they are dirty, clean with a wire brush and reattach. Apply a light coat of grease to the top of the terminals to prevent further corrosion.
Battery could not have enough power stored in it to spin the engine. This can be caused by a bad cell in the battery or from a bad alternator not charging the battery when the engine is running. If you can get the car to a mechanic, have him or her test the battery and charging system with a special tester. This tester places a load on the battery and can tell the condition. They can also check to see if the alternator is working to it’s full potential.
Starter or solenoid could be bad. If you can not jump start the car and all of the battery cables are ok then suspect the starter.
Car won’t start, I hear nothing.
Check battery cables as above.
Have the battery tested. There could be a bad cell causing a short. You can try jump-starting but often the car will not stay running.
Car won’t start, all I hear is a horrible grinding noise.
Grinding noises point to the starter not properly meshing with the flywheel. This can be caused by a bad solenoid or a bad spot on the flywheel.
I have also seen starters loosen up so they no longer contact the flywheel at the proper distance. While not common, it is something to keep in mind.
Car starts but my headlights are dim at low engine speeds.
Look to the alternator for problems. Take the car to your mechanic to have the alternator checked for proper operation.
Check for loose wires going to the alternator. Also check for corrosion, as this will inhibit the alternator from charging properly.
Check the tension on the alternator belt. If it is too loose, the belt may slip and not drive the alternator properly.
As you can see there are plenty of things to go wrong with the charging system and it is always best to take the car to your mechanic and have it tested before you go replacing parts blindly.
Preventing problems with your electrical system:
Replace your battery every 4 years as a safety measure. It will save allot of headaches down the road.
If your battery is not a sealed unit, check fluid levels in each cell. Only fill with distilled water and be careful around the acid, which is in the battery.
Check your alternator belt frequently for cracks and tension. Replace per your cars manufacturers recommendations.
Clean your battery connections at least once a year. Parts stores sell a handy terminal cleaner which is basically a round wire brush, which works wonders. Once you reattach the terminals, coat with a layer of heavy grease or special purpose grease sold at parts stores. This layer will block the air from reacting with the connectors and creating corrosion.
How to jump start your car:
Jump-starting your car does not have to be a hard task. First lay out the cables on the ground between the two cars. Make sure that the cable is not tangled and none of the end clamps are touching each other. The car with the good battery should be running.
Step 1: Take the positive (red) clamp closest to the car with the good battery and hook it to the positive terminal of that car. The positive terminal will have a + sign on it and usually a red wire running to it.
Step 2: Repeat this step on the car with the bad battery, hooking up the positive clamp to the positive terminal on the battery. Make sure the clamps are contacting well and can not fall off.
Step 3: Take the negative cable (black) closest to the car with the good battery and hook it to the negative terminal of the battery. The negative terminal will have a – sign and usually a black wire running to it.
Step 4: This is the last step and the most important. Take the negative clamp closest to the car with the bad battery and attach it to a bare metal part of the engine. DO NOT hook it to the batteries negative terminal as there maybe hydrogen gas present from the battery and a spark from the connection could cause an explosion.
That’s it…… turn the key on the dead car and the car should start. If it does not, try revving the engine on the good car to boost the charge coming from the alternator. If this does not work, try wiggling the cables to assure you have a good connection. GOOD sets of jumper cables are a necessity. I have had cheaper sets not jump-start a dead car. I actually had to double up two cheap sets to get enough current to start my car. The cheaper sets will have thinner cables, which cannot carry enough amperage to start some stalled cars. I would suggest buying a cable, which has 4,6 or 8-gauge wire.
Your Drive Train Explained
The drive train serves two functions: it transmits power from the engine to the drive wheels, and it varies the amount of torque. “Power” is the rate or speed at which work is performed. “Torque” is turning or twisting force. Multiple ratio gearboxes are necessary because the engine delivers its maximum power at certain speeds, or RPM (Rotations Per Minute). In order to use the same engine RPM’s at different road speeds, it is necessary to change the “Gear Ratio” between the engine and the drive wheels. Just like a bicycle, the car has to switch gears in order to move at a wide range of speeds. Unlike your bicycle, the car’s drivetrain also has to allow you to back up. (Well, you could push it backwards if you ate your Wheaties)
There are actually two sets of gears in the drive train; the transmission and the differential. The transmission allows the gear ratio to be adjusted, and the differential lets the drive wheels turn at different speeds.
Manual transmissions usually have four or five speeds, and often have “overdrive”, which means that the output shaft can turn faster than the input shaft for fuel economy on the highway. Some use an electric clutch and a switch that controls whether the overdrive is engaged or not. An interesting development on a few cars is the “clutchless” manual transmission, which uses a stick shift and an automatic electric clutch. Speed and position sensors, mini computers, and throttle controls keep the engine from over-revving when the driver shifts gears. As with many automotive “inventions”, this is an old idea, which may now reach feasibility due to the computer revolution.
Automatic transmissions commonly use three forward gears to blend speed and torque. In the case of a three-speed transmission, first gear delivers maximum torque and minimum speed for starting. Second gear offers medium torque and speed for acceleration and hill climbing. Third gear allows maximum speed with minimum torque for highway travel. A reverse gear permits backward movement.
A transmission is a speed and power-changing device installed at some point between the engine and driving wheels of a vehicle. It provides a means for changing the ratio between engine RPM (Revolutions Per Minute) and driving wheel RPM to best meet each particular driving situation.
Some types of drive train layouts use a “Transaxle”, which is simply a combination of the transmission and the differential. These are usually found on front wheel drive cars, but are also used on mid- and rear-engine cars. Some exotic cars have their engine in the front, and a transaxle in the rear of the car for better weight balance.
Torque is derived from power. The amount of torque obtainable from a source of power is proportional to the distance from the center of rotation at which it is applied. It is logical, then, that if we have a shaft (in this case, the crankshaft) rotating at any given speed, we can put gears of different sizes on the shaft and obtain different results. If we put a large gear on the shaft, we will get more speed and less power at the rim than with a small gear. If we place another shaft parallel to our driving shaft and install gears on it in line with those on the driving shaft, we can obtain almost any desired combination of speed or power within the limits of the engine’s ability. That is exactly what an automobile transmission does by means of gears and other devices.
There are two types of transmissions; manual and automatic. If you have a manual transmission, you have to shift the gears yourself, usually with a stick located on your console and the clutch pedal. If you have an automatic transmission, the mechanism changes without any help from you. This is accomplished through a system that works by oil pressure. Each shift of the gears is controlled by a shift valve; the gears shift change depending on speed, the road, and load conditions.
Another basic component of all drive trains is some form of a clutch. it allows the engine to continue rotating while the gears and wheels are stationary. Automatic transmission cars use a “torque converter” in lieu of a clutch.
The last component in the drive train is the axle. In a rear wheel drive car the axle is in the rear. Engine power is transmitted from the transmission to the axle via the drive shaft. The drive shaft is basically a metal tube with joints on each end called universal joints. These joints allow the tube to move in relation to the suspension and keep power flowing to the rear. In front wheel drive cars the axle is integrated into the transmission thus the term transaxle.
>From the back of the engine to where the rubber meets the road, the drive train encompasses one of the most complicated systems of your car. Some people say looking at a transmission “makes their brain hurt”.
The above information is directly from the Auto Insight program, which you can buy online from AutoEducation.com.
Common Problems:
Manual transmissions suffer from wear mainly in the synchronizers. The synchronizers make shifting easier and help to prevent gear clash. Over time the synchronizers, which are made of brass, can wear out causing hard shifting and grinding.
Automatic transmissions can also wear out, causing slipping and uneven shifting patterns. Universal joints can wear and cause vibrations while driving. Many newer universal joints are sealed and cannot be lubricated, leaving replacement as the only option.
Preventive Maintenance:
Change the fluid in your transmission at recommended intervals. Your owners manual will give you a time schedule in miles and or months. If you tow a boat or trailer be prepared to change the fluid even sooner. Most owners manuals will give you recommend intervals for severe use like towing or off-road use.
Do not “ride” the clutch if you have a manual transmission. Learn to release the clutch in a smooth motion without revving the engine too much. Revving the engine too much while pulling out can cause premature wear on the clutch.
If you do tow a boat or trailer, consider getting a transmission cooler for your automatic transmission. Temperatures can approach the boiling point in severe conditions. Most newer trucks come equipped with transmission coolers if sold with a towing package.
Make sure your universal joint is lubricated at oil changes if they are the type, which can be lubricated. When replacing universal joints try to find replacements with lubrication fittings so you can lubricate in the future.
If you have a front wheel drive car, avoid applying the gas to the floor while the wheels are turned at full lock. This puts stress on the universals and can cause premature failure. This can happen when stuck in the snow and trying to get out.
What to discuss with your mechanic:
If you are noticing a vibration in the car while driving, make sure to describe when it happens. While accelerating? braking? maintaining speed? when turning?
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